Outdoor Kletterkurse / Climbing Courses 2012

There is a new structure to the outdoor climbing program through the Salzburg Climbing Gym (Kletterhalle Salzburg) / denkundstein.  We have created a 4 level structure that will be more appealing to clients and better fit individual needs. 

Level 1 focuses on climbing technique on real rock.  Level 2 addresses all the nessary rope technique and saftey issues when climbing at a single-pitch sport climbing crag.  Level 3 covers rope management and safety for climbing multi-pitch bolted sport routes.  For more information or to register for a course, contact the Kletterhalle or me directly at joefratianni@hotmail.com.

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Termine:
Sa, 19. Mai 2012, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr; Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
Mi, 30. Mai+Do, 31. Mai 2012, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 16.45 Uhr
Di, 19. Juni+Do, 20. Juni 2012, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 16.45 Uhr
Sa, 7. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
Sa, 21. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg - Parkplaz Zistelalm um 9.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
So, 20. Mai, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 9.45 Uhr
Di, 12. Juni+Mi, 13. Juni, 17.00 - 20.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 16.45 Uhr
So, 8. Juli, 10.00 - 16.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Eingangshalle Rif um 9.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
Sa, 16. Juni 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
So, 17. Juni 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
So, 22. Juli 2012, 9.00 - 17.00 Uhr, Treffpunkt Gaisberg- Parkplatz Zistelalm um 8.45 Uhr
 
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

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Termine:
Nach Absprache
Anforderungen: perfektes Vorstiegssichern und Klettern in der Halle (4c)
Kursinformation und Anmeldung: info@denkundstein.at; 0043 (0) 699 11 21 2001 (bitte innerhalb unserer Öffnungszeiten der Kletterhalle Salzburg anrufen, 10.00 - 22.00 Uhr)

March Training Record

I have kept records of my training activities for a number of years.  I have a day-to-day plan and logs to record what I do, time, elevation gain, intensity, volume, etc.  I also record my resting pulse rate, sleep quality & amount, weight & body fat and mood..

March Totals

74.5 hours of training time (actual)

24 training sessions

3 full rest days / 5 long work days without training (<10 hours)

14,878 meters of elevation gain

weight = 71kg., body fat = 11%, body mass index = 21.91, resting heart rate = 44

My training generally falls into two areas: endurance training and sport specific skill training.  Endurance activities in March were hiking carrying weight, mountain trail running, alpine routes and ski touring.  For sport specific skill training was made up of alpine skiing, indoor climbing, bouldering, outdoor sport climbing, fingerboard sessions and supplemental exercise (movement, mobility & flexibility, strength/power).

Apelscharte Couloir

On a very cold Monday in February I went into the Wimbachgries (Wimbach drainage) and climbed an alpine ice route on the right side of the valley under the Apelscharte.  Other than the cold, the ice and snow conditions were excellent.  The Apelscharte Couloir has ice sections to WI4, steep snow & easy mixed terrain at about 350 meters in elevation difference.

The most attractive feature of the climb was the 50 meter compact ice fall in the middle of the couloir.  Before getting to this spot, there was about 150 meters of snow and easy ice.  Despite the very low temperatures, the ice was in great condition for climbing and felt very secure.

 Looking up from about 15 meters into the pitch.  Cold, steep, compact ice.  I climbed the route in my Dynafit TLT 5 Performance boots and Black Diamond Cyborgs set up as Mono-points.  The climb was a test to see how well the boots would work in moderate alpine terrain   I used my trusted, and well loved, Black Diamond Cobras.

The TLT's are incredibly light - they weigh less than most standard winter alpine boots.  A number of climbers in Chamonix have used them to do some very impressive climbs and link-ups.

Balanced on my front points and looking down from the top of the central ice pitch. I took two 30-meter twin ropes with me.  I normally trail the ropes behind me on steep and more technical terrain.  In this way I can set up a self-belay or retreat quickly without complications.

This is in the easier ice runnel looking up towards the exit of the couloir.  I have set an ice screw to self-belay while I rest and take a photo.  My ice tools are attached to my harness with a Black Diamond Spinner leash.

I had four ice screws, a couple of pitons (baby angle & knife blade), two 120cm slings, one 60cm sling, three quick draws (2 normal & one 60cm sling rigged as a quick draw), 3 locking carabineers and pieces of accessory cord.

The exit to the Apelscharte was snow with some easy mixed terrain.  I down climbed and rappelled the descent back to my skis.  On the descent, I was surprised by how steep the couloir was, because while climbing I didn't have the same feeling of exposure.

The ski out was some nice powder turns, and then the long cruise out of the low angled part of the drainage and onto the forest road.  It was cold!  I couldn't ski too fast, and had to make some stops, to warm up and keep from getting a cold induced headache.  My feet felt like two wooden blocks by the time I got back to the parking lot.

The approach to the couloir is 950 or so meters of elevation gain and is long (maybe 6-7 km).  You take the right hand side of the drainage, heading towards the Loferer Seilergraben.  It's a good 2.5-3 hours before you can turn into the couloir entrance at about 1450 meters.  There were some amazingly impressive avalanche run outs from the flanks and cliffs of the right hand slopes when heading into the valley.  Take care when skinning in that you stay well left of the right hand flanks.

Training Thoughts

Do you know why you train? Have you ever defined your goals, precisely? True fitness, which is different from the appearance of fitness, generally comes down to the power plant. Do you need a big and pretty engine, a powerful engine, or perhaps a big gas tank? The answer depends entirely on the objective.
... ...

If success depends on measured distribution of effort, efficient fuel assimilation and expenditure, and on the certainty that pressing the pedal five hours into it will cause the engine to respond with something better than a cough, then it's the capacity of the tank rather than the size or appearance of the engine that matters. Long endurance efforts universally require one to carry his/her engine so power-to-weight ratio is equally important: increase power and endurance without gaining size or compromising oxygen efficiency." 

The above excerpt is from the Gym Jones site.  It was written in regards to cycling, but could just as easily be applied to alpine climbing.

An alpine objective usually involves an approach of low-level endurance, start and stop efforts when climbing a route - at times with brief maximum efforts - and again low-level endurance energy expenditure during the descent.  This is usually done carrying weight.  In some situations, you have to additionally deal with less than normal sleep and eating habits and amounts.

If this is what you are training for, how do you do it?

you need to 1) create a large gas tank, 2) use body fat stores as fuel, 3) maximize strength-to-weight ratio in body composition (in other words be as strong and powerful as possible at the lowest weight).

Sport -specific skill training should be separated from physical training such as endurance, strength, power, etc.

If we look at rock climbing as an element of the alpine mix we can divide training for this into skill focused or physical focused.  (There is of course some overlap, but the point is the intent or priority of the training)

Rock climbing skill list (partial):

reading rock

placing protection

finding & utilizing rests

precise use of feet

using momentum generated from legs

high stepping

turning & flagging

down climbing

climbing on-sight

etc.

Rock climbing physical list (partial):

continuous up/down climbing for <30 minutes

interval training, 1:1 ratio of lap climbing with rest period

maximum effort on route with full recovery between repetitions

fingerboard training

4X4 bouldering

linking 4-6 moves at maximum effort

speed climbing intervals

etc.

An alpinist should be focused on skills that will make him/her more efficient and faster.  Physical training should be made up mostly of endurance-level efforts.

Again, looking just at rock climbing, an alpinist should improve their ability in rope handling, placing protection and on-sight climbing to cite just three skill elements.  Physically focused training for rock should rely heavily on continuous up/down climbing of up to 60 minutes, interval training at around 80% maximum effort (12-15 laps) and speed climbing intervals.

The above is only really scratching the surface of one facet that makes up an alpinist.  There are also the abilities in ice, snow, mixed terrain, skiing, etc.  Additionally, just off the top of my head, the areas nutrition, mental strength and equipment are critically important.

This is what makes alpinism a totally engaging life-long pursuit.  And perhaps why some of us have a chip on our shoulders about specialists active in only one of the various disciplines that make up the complete alpine picture.

Do You Have A Knot? (Near Miss on The Gaisberg)

"Es geht locher aus!" ("There's easily enough!"), he said nine meters above the ground as he was cleaning the quickdraws from the route.  A few seconds later there was a scream from the young women belaying and the thumping sound of his body hitting the ground and tumbling down the steeply sloping landing.

The young couple climbing had a 60 meter rope. They were on a route that is 38 meters long and designed as a two-pitch practice climb to learn and perfect multi-pitch rope technique. There is a two-bolt belay anchor at 18 meters into the route. A climber could also naturally climb the full length and belay the second from above, making two rappels to get down.(there are independent rappel anchors)

The young guy that fell was luckily not seriously injured.  There are a number of wooden and iron spikes in the ground that support retaining logs that form flat terraces for the path and belay platforms.  He could have very easily landed on on one of the spikes.

A knot at the end of the rope would have prevented the accident.

ARC'TERYX: The Adamants "What Can Go Wrong, Will Go Wrong" from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.

Toni and Brunno in the video above had a similar accident. Toni Lamprecht is a professionally sponsored climber and very experienced.  I assume Brunno is just as experienced.  If something like this could happen to them, it certainly could happen to you.  It's my firm belief that accidents like this are total surprises to the victims involved.  We rationalize that it is only others, those less experienced, less careful, in more demanding situations, that make mistakes.  This is why one must be vigilant, even in seemingly mundane situations.

It is standard practice to always have a stopper knot at the end of the rope while sport climbing, rappelling, climbing with a self-belaying system, etc.  Falling due to an un-knotted rope passing through a belay device is perhaps the most common technical mistake that leads to climbing accidents.  So if your partner is not tied into the end of the rope, then there should always be a stopper knot on the end.

KletterTreff Kletterhalle Salzburg

Rest & Reflection

I can't remember how many times I have said to myself that I will keep my blog entries more regular.  However, no matter how good the intentions are, it is a lot of work and time intensive to regularly write. Since I started this blog, I have developed a lot of respect for people who are disciplined enough to regularly publish interesting information on the web, even more for those who inspire and motivate me.

Usually when I have long lapses between posting, it is due to being really busy with work and private climbing - courses, guiding, personal training, etc., and of course my own training.  Off the top of my head the list of what I've been up to is as follows:

Wilder Kaiser - alpine rock routes

Hohes Brett southwest face - multi-pitch bolted routes courses & guiding

Untersberg Berchtesgadener Hochthorn (south face, "Gelbe Mauer", "Schimkepfeiler") - guiding & private climbing

Weißseespitze - north face, alpine snow/ice

Wildspitze - north face, alpine snow/ice

Untersberg Salzburger Hochthron (south face, "Blausandpheiler", east face) - guiding & private climbing

Due to excellent fall weather and conditions, there have been extended time periods for climbing.  Alpine rock climbing is always best at this time of year in the Northeastern Alps around Salzburg.  Approaches are usually cold and the descents are also usually cold and in the dark, but during the day the temps are perfect with conditions that guarantee great friction for the feet and hands.

Additionally, we seem to get a couple of good snow storms up high every September and October.  The precipitation combined with a bit of sun and warmer fall temperatures work together to often create good conditions on classic north face snow & ice climbs in the Hohe Tauern range.

Yesterday (a Saturday), my wife and I were at the southwest face of the Hohe Brett for a fun, low-stress day of bolted multi-pitch climbing.  This face is one of my favorite climbing areas in the fall.  Highly-structured alpine limestone at an elevation between 1800 and 2300 meters.  In many years I have been rock climbing in the sun on one weekend here and then the following weekend skiing powder on the first ski tour of the season.  Anyways, we were alone on the face yesterday.  A few hikers passed by underneath us during the day.

In Tyrol, on the Weißseespitze and Wildspitze, I was also alone.  The glacier ski areas on the Kaunerferner and in Pitztal are running, so there were skiers around.  On the north faces, there was some hard wind-pressed snow and blank ice.  I found the conditions really good and perfect for training at a higher elevation and getting some early season mileage on steep snow and ice.  You can not artificially duplicate the training effect of climbing moderate 55 degree snow and ice over 400 or 500 meters of elevation.  It is also a chance to test the affects of summer fitness training, plus new ideas with equipment and clothing systems before winter sets in.

So today is more or less a rest day, though I'll probably do a little sport climbing or bouldering later on.  Upon reflecting back on the last few weeks, I've really done a lot, especially when I factor in the normal "mundane" training sessions.  When my wife and I got home last night, we were both tired and hungry - that deep satisfied feeling of tiredness and real hunger that only comes after a long day out. It's a great feeling.