Saturday, May 16, 2020

Benchmark Training Route: Untersberg East Face (Ostgrat, "Laterndl", III-(5.3)


I could sneak in this climb as Salzburg was coming out of the coronavirus quarantine and just before a good week-long low pressure system moved in with damp, rainy weather. The east ridge route on the Untersberg (going from left to right on the photo), Salzburg's local mountain, is a well known alpine scramble and a "must do" for any local alpine climber.

The route is very well known to me. It is one of the 10 or 12 routes within a short distance from my Salzburg home that I use as a alpine endurance and sport specific training route throughout the year. In the most recent five or so years, I have usually been in Greece during April and May climbing on Kalymnos. Like everything else in the world, 2020 -- in the year of COVID-19 -- everything is different.

So, in the late spring, needing to get back in shape, I did the east ridge on the Untersberg fresh out of quarantine. As an alpine training route the full tour has about 1100m of approach and 300m of scrambling on chossy limestone. The more 'technical' parts are rated at UIAA III--. At the end of April into the start of May, the approach finishes with a steep snow slope and short gully at about 40°.



I did the majority of the hike to the snow slopes in my approach shoes. I changed over to a pair of light weight, fully crampon compatible, mountaineering boots once on the snow slopes. I used my light-weight hiking poles and had light, alpine crampons (half steel / half aluminium) that stayed in my pack. Mountaineering boots and poles are indispensable for the 150-200m to steep snow. The crampons are insurance. All is essential for doing this route in spring.


I wanted to climb the route in the stiff-soled mountaineering boots for the training benefits. The first two pitches that get you to the ridge proper are the crux of the climbing. It is a bit awkward climbing and made insecure by the rock quality. They belay stances are usually equipped with single, oversized U-shaped bolts and there are some expansion bolts and various pitons. In spring, alpine rock routes have come through the winter continuous freeze-thaw cycles. Nobody has most likely climbed the route since the past autumn. You have to assume that everything is potentially loose and untrustworthy.



The biggest concern, and what requires sustained vigilance, is the breakable rock. You are in the realm of, "don't pull on anything alpine climbing." It's not hard when you reflect on the moves, but you are aware of the exposure, the mental strain and the need to focus.


A benchmark training route is one that I can repeatedly return to and use to evaluate all the elements of skill, stamina, nutrition, equipment, etc., as I make small tweaks and adjustments in my quest to improve. The route serves as a yardstick to measure myself. The feeling and emotional sense while doing standard training routes gives me insight into answering the question of whether or not I am ready for a particular bigger objective.


Gear for the outing: approach shoes, 30m single strand half/twin rope, minimal Blue Ice harness, one alpine quick draw, one HMS carabiner, one small locking carabiner, light-weight Petzl crampons, first-aid with headlamp, helmet, one liter electrolyte drink, sunglasses, very small multitool, wind shirt, light-weight Arcteryx puffy, Scarpa 'Rebel' mountaineering boots, Z-type hiking poles (not pictured), Buff-type headwater, cap, backpack.

As I said, I know this route very well including what is already in the rock -- bolts and fixed gear -- so what I take is very minimal and is carried for any kind of emergency situation. Perhaps the conditions are different than what I expect, really wet for example. Or It could be that my mental condition is not up to the challenges for some reason. Regardless, I want to make sure I can enact plan "B," "C" or "D" if needed.

Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Canadian Rockies Ice March 2020

In March of 2020 I had one last day to climb in the Canadian Rockies. I soloed the moderate classic route "The Professor Falls" near Banff. In the short videos I speak about some technical aspects of gear and mental aspects of soloing


The approach to the climb was about an hour of flat walking. The majority of the approach is on asphalt roads that go through a golf course (which is closed in the winter). Many climbers choose to use mountain bikes to make the approach a bit faster. Once you leave the golf course, you walk along the Bow River through the woods and passing under the famous "Trophy Wall" that holds the landmark climbs "The Replicant", "The Terminator" and "Sea of Vapours". It was comfortably cold with clearing clouds that had deposited about 10cm of new snow. 


I am using the current edition of Petzl's "Nomic" ice tools. I girth hitch the tethers through the slots in the handles as these points are stronger than the holes in the spike of the tools. First you can girth hitch the tool handles then girth hitch the other end of the tether through the belay loop on your harness by bringing the lower attachment loop over the pick and head of the tool. Now you have attached the tools directly to your harness without any carabiners or swivels that may form a weak link in your system.


Dialling in your equipment and systems is vitally important in all forms of ice and mixed climbing. The quality and performance of your equipment and material makes a huge difference in your both your level of climbing and safety. I started using Petzl "Laser Light" aluminium ice screws two seasons ago. The screws are very fast to place because they bite very aggressively in the ice. When there is a higher level of water in the ice, the screws can be 'sticky' and hard to turn. The best way to deal with this is to back the screw out a half turn or so and then spin the screw in. The weight of the screws are noticeably lighter on your harness. Most advantageous is the fact that you can place the screws in pre-existing holes from steel ice screws. The tubes of the aluminium screws are larger in diameter and the threads will set securely in a pre-existing hole from a steel ice screw.

Saturday, January 5, 2019

Seasonal Shift In Climbing

I returned to Austria in the second week of November. I took a bit of time "off" and did some unstructured training that was mostly fun climbing at the alpine crag at Barmstein above Hallein. I love Barmstein, especially after being on Kalymnos for the season. Barmstein is such a great home crag - hard climbing, sparsely bolted, trad lines, multi-pitch climbs - the crag has it all.
The Salzburg area had some excellent autumn weather in November. Sometimes a bit frosty in the early morning, yet nonetheless warm enough to climb in the sun on the west facing side of Barmstein by 11:00 or so.
 The yard boss, Mimi is an exceptional climber. She prefers to stay on the farm and do her circuits where she can keep an eye on the mice and chickens running around.
The short days of November and early December come around and force us climbers to go indoors to the plastic. It is kind of a purgatory to be endured at the worst of times and never taken too seriously all the time.
Eventually the snow comes to you or you go to it. If you're fortunate, you may be the first one to glide through it in the immense stillness. Walking meditation.
Then the rain comes, or it gets warm, and you are consigned to train on plastic because it serves the purpose. Putting in your time on the indoor walls always dreaming of ...
Ice. Thankfully, it still shows up. Thin slabs, delicate icicles, hollow tubes. We take it anyway it comes, just grateful that it's there.
If the inevitable damp, warm weather makes only a brief appearance early in the ice season, the frozen waterfalls will stay around. And, like people who weather other types of stressors, the ice perseveres, grows and becomes stronger. If your icy friend is well situated, you can bring some of your other new and old friends and make an introduction.
However, climbing the multitude of frozen structures is an intensely personal and individual pursuit. Interacting with the medium. Climbing meditation.

Thursday, December 20, 2018

Off-Piste Skiing Additional Course Dates & Avalanche Update from Michael Lacher

feet, ankles, stance
This winter season, my single day off-piste skiing technique courses are very popular. The two sessions have been fully booked since they were advertised through the Salzburg Section of the Austrian Alpenverein at the start of December.

This past weekend, Saturday 15. December 2018, I had a group of seven skiers and then on the following Sunday, 16. December 2018 a day for participants on the waiting list.
happy, tired skiers after a day of concentrated work
The next scheduled off-piste skiing course is Saturday, 19. January 2019. The course is already fully booked. However, I have two additional days scheduled:


Friday, 01. February 2019

Sunday, 03. February 2019

I am planning on skiing with the participants in Obertauern as long as the weather and conditions allow. There are spaces still available for the two dates in February. The cost is €40,-- per participant with a minimum of four participants. (6 is the maximum.)

Contact me with questions or for more information by using the contact form on the right.

Avalanche Safety & Education for Skiers, Boarders, Snowshoers ...

Michael Lacher, Director of Mountain Sports Austrian Alpenverein
Lawinen Update Presentation In Salzburg!

Wednesday, 09. January 2019 at 19:00
Odeion in Hallwang -- It's FREE!

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

Winter & Spring Program 2018 - 2019

Here's an overview of what I am doing this winter and spring for the Alpine Ausbildung Program for the Salzburg Alpenverein and some other stuff.

The off-piste ski technique courses seem to be very popular and I have had to add some extra dates.

There may be a few new things coming as well. I am thinking about a Freeride Ski Course in the spring in Hintertux and perhaps a ski mountaineering group too.


Alpenverein Salzburg Kurse & Programmen

Winter / Frühling 2018 / 2019

Kurs / Program
Termine
Teilnehmer-gebühr
Teilnahme-bedingungen
Anmeldung und Infos
Status
Schitechnik im Gelände
Sa., 15.12 2018
€40,—
sicher fahren auf der Piste
ausgebucht
nur Warteliste
Schitechnik im Gelände
So., 16.12.2018
€40,—
sicher fahren auf der Piste
zusätzlicher Termin für Personen auf der Warteliste und neue Anmeldungen
Eisklettern Refresher und Grundkurs
Fr., 28.-So., 30.12.2018
€150,—
Klettern Grundkenntnis & Kameraden Sicherung in Top Rope / Vorstieg
mindestens 3 Teilnehmer nötig bis maximal 5 Teilnehmer
Eisklettern Fortgeschritten
Mi., 02.-Fr., 04.01.2019
€200,—
Eisklettern Grundkurs
mindestens 3 Teilnehmer nötig bis maximal 5 Teilnehmer
Schitechnik im Gelände


sicher fahren auf der Piste

ausgebucht
nur Warteliste
AV-Sektion Großramming Eiskletterkurs
Do., 24.-So., 27.02.2019
€180,—
Klettern Grundkenntnis & Kameraden Sicherung Top-Rope / Vorstieg

AV-Sektion Großramming
geschlossene Gruppe nur für AV-Sektion Großramming
Schitechnik im Gelände
Fr., 01.02.2019
€40,—
sicher fahren auf der Piste
zusätzlicher Termin für Personen auf der Warteliste und neue Anmeldungen
Schitechnik im Gelände
So., 03.02.2019
€40,—
sicher fahren auf der Piste
zusätzlicher Termin für Personen auf der Warteliste und neue Anmeldungen
Eisklettern Training Gruppe
Zeitraum: So., 17.-Sa., 23.02.2019
abhängig von Teilnehmer-zahl und Tage, bitte bei Interesse direkt Kontakt aufnehmen
absolviert AV-Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung Eisklettern Grund- und Fortgeschrittenen Kurse, oder ähnliche Erfahrung
nur mit Erlaubnis des Kursleiters, maximum 3 Teilnehmer
Schi- bergsteigen & Alpine Eis Training Gruppe
Zeitraum: So., 24.02-Sa., 02.03.2019
abhängig von Teilnehmer-zahl und Tage, bitte bei Interesse direkt Kontakt aufnehmen
absolviert AV-Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung Schitouren Grund- und Fortgeschrittenen Kurse, Stop or Go + Notfall Lawine
nur mit Erlaubnis des Kursleiters, maximum 4 Teilnehmer
Schitouren Fortgeschritten
Fr. (Abend),-So.,
15.-17.03.2019
€120,—
Schitouren Grundkurs, Stop or Go + Notfall Lawine
mindestens 3 Teilnehmer nötig bis maximal 6 Teilnehmer
Schihochtouren: Westalpen Durchquerung
Zeitraum: Do., 28.03.-So., 07.04.2019
abhängig von Teilnehmer-zahl und Tage, bitte bei Interesse direkt Kontakt aufnehmen
absolviert AV-Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung Schitouren Grund- und Fortgeschrittenen Kurse, Stop or Go + Notfall Lawine, oder ähnliche Erfahrung
nur mit Erlaubnis des Kursleiters, maximum 5 Teilnehmer

Vorschau Sommer und Herbst:

Kalymnos Zeitplan 2019
Ostern Klettern, Sa., 20.04 - So. 05.05.2019
Klettersaison: 20.05.2019 bis Mitte November 2019

Chamonix / Mont Blanc 
Alpine Eis & Mixed Training Gruppe plus Mont Blanc über “3 Monts” Route
Zeitraum: Do., 26.09.-So., 06.10.2019

Of course, if there or any questions or if you need further information, just contact me by using the links provided or the contact form on the right.

Monday, April 9, 2018

Kalymnos 2018 Season: Programs & Info

Kalymnos 2018

I will start my season on Kalymnos on May 16, 2018. I will be on the island through the autumn, until the end of October or beginning of November.

To get an overview of what's going on this year, go to www.kalymnosprimalclimb.com. You can also find out more through my Facebook page here, or on Instagram here.

Kalymnos Program Schedule 2018


PROGRAM
SHORT DESCRIPTION
DATES
COST
ENROLLEMENT
Transitions in Outdoor Climbing
Intensive three-day course for climbers with some experience
Saturday, 19. May through Monday, 21. May 2018
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of five participants
Multi-Pitch Basic
Beginning-level course for bolted, multi-pitch routes
Thursday, 24. May through Saturday, 26. May 2018
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants
Multi-Pitch Supplement
Intermediate rope skills: partner assistance, emergency retreat, double rope technique - complements the Multi-Pitch Basic Course
Monday, 28. May through Tuesday, 29. May 2018
€225,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants
Climbing for Fitness & Longevity with Dr. Peter Battre
Lifestyle climbing as primary means of fitness and health, nutrition, supplemental activities, medical consultation and evaluation
Thursday, 07. June through Tuesday, 12. June 2018
€750,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of five participants
Primal Climb Interactive
with Dr. Peter Battre
Interactive seminar with a focus on outdoor rock climbing, lifestyle adjustments and personal growth, nutrition, supplemental activities and medical evaluation
Thursday, 14. June through Tuesday, 19. June 2018
€750,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of five participants
Fundamentals of Sport Climbing
Entry-level course for outdoor rock climbing
Thursday, 12. July through Tuesday, 17. July 2018
(five days of climbing in six day period)
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of three participants to maximum of six participants
Transitions in Outdoor Climbing
Intermediate-level course for climbers with some experience
Thursday, 19. July through Tuesday, 24. July 2018
(five days of climbing in six day period)
€350,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of six participants
KALYMNOS REUNION
10-Day Private Invitation Only Group
Reunion of past climbers who have taken various courses with kalymnosprimalclimb.com in previous seasons
Friday, 03. August through Sunday, 12 August 2018
(nine days of climbing in ten-day period)
€450,— per Participant
Minimum of three participants to maximum of six participants
Private Lessons & Personal Training
Individual and small group custom lessons, training & coaching
Thursday, 16. August through Wednesday, 30 August 2018
€90,— to €280,— per Participant per Day
(Click on the “Private Lessons & Personal Training” icon under “Services” on kalymnosprimalclimb.com)
Minimum of two participants to maximum of five participants
Fundamentals of Sport Climbing
Entry-level course for outdoor rock climbing
Thursday, 30. August through Tuesday, 04 September 2018
(five days of climbing in a six-day period)
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of three participants to maximum of six participants
Transitions in Outdoor Climbing
Intermediate-level course for climbers with some experience
Thursday, 06. September through Tuesday, 12. September 2018
(five days of climbing in a six-day period)
€350,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of six participants
Multi-Pitch Basic
Beginning-level course for bolted, multi-pitch routes
Thursday, 27. September through Saturday, 29. September 2018
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants
Multi-Pitch Supplement
Intermediate rope skills: partner assistance, emergency retreat, double rope technique - complements the Multi-Pitch Basic Course
Monday, 01. October through Tuesday, 02. October 2018
€225,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants
Transitions in Outdoor Climbing
Intermediate-level course for climbers with some experience
Thursday, 04. October through Tuesday, 09. October 2018
(five days of climbing in a six-day period)
€350,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of six participants
Multi-Pitch Basic
Beginning-level course for bolted, multi-pitch routes
Thursday, 18. October through Saturday, 20. October 2018
€325,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants
Multi-Pitch Supplement
Intermediate rope skills: partner assistance, emergency retreat, double rope technique - complements the Multi-Pitch Basic Course
Monday, 22. October through Tuesday, 23. October 2018
€225,— per Participant
Minimum of two participants to maximum of three participants

To book any activity simply reserve your spot by email at fratiannijoe@gmail.com or click on “CONTACT” at kalymnosprimalclimb.com. I would be happy to give you advice and answer any questions regarding my various program offerings.

If you do not see a program or date that fits your schedule, just contact me about arranging an alternative.