Thursday, March 30, 2017

kalymnosprimalclimb.com Multi-Pitch Courses in May

Kalymnos multi-pitch climbing, kalymnosprimalclimb.com
Last rope length of "Wild Country", Kalymnos (Tolendos island)

Get an early start on the European multi-pitch sport climbing season. Learn and practice rope technique, efficient team movement, safety, self-rescue, etc.

kalvmnosprimalclimb.com has spaces available In May for all types of multi-pitch climbing activities.

Kalymnos offers exceptional sunny, dry, all-day climbing weather from May in to the first week of June. Courses are guaranteed. The long multi-pitches on Kalymnos' neighbouring island Tolendos are an all-day pleasure, from approach, climb and descent.

All my courses and programs can be found on Kalymnos Multi-Pitch offerings.

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Kalymnos Klettern 2017, "Kalymnos Primal Climb"

Kalymnos Kletterkurse
Partnercheck nicht vergessen!
Meine neue Website über alle meine Sport-Klettern Aktivitäten auf Kalymnos ist da! "Kalymnos Primal Climb" hat Informationen über Kletterkurse, Privatunterricht, Personal Training, Multi-Pitch Sportklettern und zwei weitere innovative Programme, die ich von Mai bis Oktober 2017 anbieten werde. Klicken Sie hier, um zur "Kalymnos Primal Climb" zu gelangen.


Lass mich wissen was Sie denken! Bitte, kontaktieren Sie mich wenn ich Ihnen in irgendeiner Weise helfen kann.

Kalymnos Climbing Courses 2017, Kalymnos Primal Climb

Kalymnos climbing courses
Another day in a climbing paradise!
My new website for all my activities on Kalymnos is up! Kalymnos Primal Climb has information on sport climbing courses, private lessons, personal training, multi-pitch climbing and two other innovative programs that I will be offering from May through October 2017. Click here to go to the website.


Let me know what you think! Contact me if I can help you in any way.

Sunday, March 5, 2017

Looking Back

austrian alpine ice climbing
Climbing in Cogne
Here it is the 5th of March. I haven't posted anything since mid-December. I justify this by thinking of  a quote from Mark Twight who said once you start spending more time writing and talking about your alpine exploits then that is a clear sign that your going downhill and moving into Poserville.

Don't want that to happen, so no posting. Solves that problem pretty nicely.

But ... I get so much from reading some good stuff from people and I would like to think that I can contribute a small bit. So, once again I think I'll try to do better. Life is however taking action and doing, not talking about it or writing about it.

I have been doing a lot of ice climbing this season, which makes up somewhat for the dismal season in Europe in 2015-2016. Here is one of the best things I came across recently related to ice climbing from Will Gadd. I have really learned so much from him through his book (which is now getting a bit outdated - hey Will, how about doing a new version???) and the great things he has posted through the years on his blog and website.

The week before Christmas I was in the Aosta valley ice climbing. I spent Christmas in Chamonix, but unfortunately there wasn't much snow and no ice around, so I went back through the tunnel to Aosta for a few more days post-Christmas.

Then I began a pretty heavy schedule of activities for the Salzburg Alpenverein: a handful of ice climbing courses, an avalanche course, an off-piste ski technique day and a ski touring course. In between all the courses there was a mid-February trip to Cogne for almost two-weeks of ice climbing. In the past couple of weeks I have been on my skis either ski touring or free-riding just seeming to find adequate snow conditions.

In addition to all this stuff, I have been trying to keep my sport climbing fitness up to speed with indoor training (It is not really going so well!) and keeping up with my clients who have personal training with me climbing indoors.

It's funny to think about it but a number of times I feel like I'm not doing enough, or I could be doing things a bit better. Scrolling through some of the photos on my computer, I realise that I have had an active few months and I don't know how I could have done more. Just goes to show you that never being satisfied, or thinking that you could do better, is part of the human condition.

Rope technique for ice climbing

Lisa climbing WI3+ during a beginner course

Wolfgang training technique during an intermediate course

Beginner Course group in Maltatal

Demonstrating "swing like you mean it!" during course work

Manfred concentrating while on first ice lead

Obertauern off-piste ski technique
Ice climbing technique day in Gastein valley

Route planning in Lillaz cafe (Cogne)

Top of the Kesselspitze during a ski touring course

Monday, December 12, 2016

Early Season (2016/17) Ice in Gasteinertal (Gastein Valley)

The photos are from the first Sunday in December, 04.12.2016. I have been in the Gastein valley three times now to climb some early season ice. The pictures are from various side valleys at the end of the main valley, in Bockstein and Nassfeld.

If you zoom-in on the photo above you'll see a rope team in this moderate classic. Of course the various climbs that are formed are more serious and technically more difficult than their guidebook ratings. The ice is more fickle to protect and not as compact and steeper as it is not filled in. 

A benefit of the lack of snow is that the threat of avalanches is non-existent in all the climbs to the right of the toll road unto Sport Gastein. There are two or three falls that are well enough formed (on 04.-09.12.2016) but will be much more susceptible to any weather and temperature fluctuations.


At the higher elevations in the Siglitz valley, the easier long embedded ice is compact and thickly built up. Additionally, the lack of snow makes all the low-angle climbs visible and fun to climb without their normal covering of snow to slog through in the flatter sections.

Specifically, I have climbed Federweis, Dopple Lutscher, Siglitzfall, Siglitz Coulior and some other easy lines at the back right side of the Siglitz valley in the direction of the Niedersachsenhaus under the Riffelscharte.

As of today, 12.12.2016, we have had some warmer, damp air move into the area and the ice conditions in the Gastein valley are pretty sensitive to any changes. On the 8th of December, it was already clear that it was a bit more humid and the higher moisture level in the air was effecting the ice. The Link Dopple Lutscher was running with water at 13:00.

As at the start of every ice season, it is best to be conservative in your choices and stay well within your ability level. You also have to be willing to just take your tools for a walk and check out things, leaving them for another day.

Monday, December 5, 2016

Schitechnik im Gelände, 11.12.2016 - UPDATE!

Den AV-Salzburg Alpine Ausbildungkurs, "Schitechnik im Gelände" am So. 11.12.2016 werden nur auf dem Piste durchgeführt. Leider, gibt es viel zu wenig Schnee den Kurs im Gelände zu machen.

Jeder Teilnehmer können allen technischen Skiübungen fürs Gelände auf dem Piste lernen und ausüben.

Sonst, als Ersatztermin mit (hoffentlich!) Skifahren im Gelände, kann ich den Freitag, 20. Jänner 2017 anbieten.

Jeder Kursteilnehmer können selbständig Entscheiden ob die den Kurs am 11.12.2016 mitmachen, warten auf den Ersatztermin oder beides machen (natürlich auch mit zusätzliches Gebühr). Mehr Infos oder beim Fragen, bitte mit 'Contact Form' (rechts) bei mir melden.

Friday, November 11, 2016

Alpenverein Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung

Meinen Kurse und Übungstouren sind On-Line für dem Alpenverein Salzburg Alpine Ausbildung Programm!

In Winter 2016/2017 biete ich Kurse in Schitouren, Skifahren im Gelände, Eisklettern für Anfänger, Eisklettern Fortgeschritten und Eisklettern Übungstouren für Anfänger und Erfahrene


Kurse & Übungstouren:


1) Schitouren Grundkurs - Anmelden!
Fr. 02. Dez. (Start um 09:00 vor Ort) - So. 04. Dez. 2016
Ort: Obertauern oder Kaprun (je nach Schneelage)
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

2) Schitechnik im Gelände - Anmelden!
So. 11. Dez. 2016 (Start um 09:00 vor Ort)
Ort: Obertauern
Treffpunkt: Grundwaldkopfbahn Talstation, 09:00 Uhr - Mitfahrgelegenheit von Salzburg 07:00 Uhr

3) Eisklettern Anfänger - Anmelden!
Do. 05. Jän. (Start 18:30 Maltainerhof) - Sa. 07. Jän. 2017
Übungstour für Eisklettern Anfänger, So. 08. Jän. 2017
Ort: Maltatal
Treffpunkt: Gasthof Maltainerhof, Malta, 18:30 Uhr (Gruppe Abendessen)

4) Eisklettern Übungstour
Sa. 21. Jän. 2017
Ort: Gasteinertal
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

5) Eisklettern Fortgeschrittene - Anmelden!
Do. 26. Jän. (Start um 18:30 Malteinerhof) - So. 29. Jän. 2017
Ort: Maltatal
Treffpunkt: Gasthof Maltainerhof, Malta, 18:30 Uhr (Gruppe Abendessen)

6) Eisklettern Übungstour
Sa. 04. Feb. 2017
Ort: Gasteinertal
Treffpunkt: Salzburg (genauer Treffpunkt wird noch bekannt gegeben), ca. 07:00 Uhr

Fragen, Details, Mehr Infos, usw., würde ich gern helfen, bitte bei mir einfach melden