information, ideas, conditions and perspectives on alpinism, climbing & ski mountaineering (photo: Schareck North Face, Hohe Tauern National Park, Salzburg, Austria)
The kids in the American International School - Salzburg climbing course have been able to get outside to climb on the climbing tower at the University of Salzburg Sport Center in Rif. I am really impressed that all the participants have made such progress in their climbing abilities. More importantly, the group is very safety conscious when belaying, always looking out for each other.
It makes a tremendous difference when beginners, such as those in the climbing course, put in the time climbing indoors. The kids have really accummulated the hours climbing and gained security whch is then transfered to climbing outdoors.
Checkout the slide show by clicking on the pictures. You can then download the pictures you want from the album!
The video link from Kelly Cordes is some great advice about training for alpinism.Codes is the editor of the American Alpine Journal and a product tester for Patagonia.
This past weekend was the first spring weather of the season. Sunny, warm, T-shirt weather. My wife and I were able to get in a number of "firsts". First long day of sport climbing outdoors, first time climbing at a new crag, first mountain bike ride and of course, first time in our favorite Bavarian Biergarten.
I have always read a lot. Usually when I want to figure something out, my first step is to find what has been written about what I am interested in. Therefore, I have read a bunch of books related to climbing, skiing and alpinism: "how-to" and technique books as well as biographies and historical accounts of climbs.
There seem to be a handful of books that I continually come back to when I am looking for advice on training, climbing, tactical information, inspiration or understanding.
I just finished reading Andy Kirkpatrick's book, Psycho Vertical. The book surprised me with its deapth and very personal introspection that I did not expect. This got me thinking about all the books and authors that have unknowingly helped me out as a climber and person.
Here's the list at this point:
Walter Bonati, The Mountains of My Life. Bonati is without a doubt the god of alpinism. What he did in his alpine career is unbelievable.
Will Gadd, Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique. The best book on ice and mixed climbing as well as dry tooling. God technique and training advice too - and everything is relayed in Gadd's super positive, motivational voice.
Mark Twight, Extreme Alpinism. The kind of book that you wished you had read before you ever started in the mountains because it would have saved you a tremendous amount of time and money.
The American Alpine Journal. This yearly journal is what is happening in the world of alpinism. The featured articles are extremely informative and inspirational.
Jeff Lowe, Ice World. One of the pioneers of modern ice climbing. His first ascents with leashes and straight-shaft tools are amazing, plus he goes even further to bring these techniques onto long alpine routes throughout the world's ranges.
Mark Twight, Kiss or Kill, Confessions of a Serial Climber. This is the most read book that I own. I turn to it when ever I get fed up with the state of (or overall lack of) all things alpine in Austria, or in my own mind.
Unclimbed alpine ice at WI4+ to WI6.I know where it is and I want it.Checked out the lines on Tuesday.Got a partner and headed back with all the gear on Friday.1100 meters of elevation gain over a four hour approach.The slope up to the cirque is 30+°.My pack was 18 kilos without one of the half ropes.Ski touring equipment and ice gear - boots to ski with and boots to climb with.
The weather: unsettled, new snow 20 to 30cm, snow showers during the day, some wind.
Can you see where this is leading?
We got to the base of the climbs.The ice looked good.The long massive lines would have to wait for another day.They are bad-ass, multi-hour (multi-day?) affairs.
Okay, let’s start with the double curtain and then move on to the pillar.We’ll get two firsts.
Short and quick: the low angle “ice” to the curtains was mush on top on wet rock – platter-size chunks broke away under your front points and from your picks.
Let’s take a look at the pillar.
30 meters to the column.I put a good screw in 2 meters from the belay.The next screw at a bulge 5 meters up was shit.I pushed its 19cm almost all the way in just with my hand.It’s just ten meters of snow and then the ice.Yeah, right.
There was no purchase.When I stood up, the surface of the snow brushed against my nose.No pro.Maybe I can climbed the small open book of ice to the right of the column and then move back left to get on the blue, compact ice.
No go.The “ice” in the open book was thin sheets in layers formed on top of spin drift.Go far right, there’s an ice bulge, maybe it’s thick and compact.I knocked away the bottom of a 25cm thick icicle.Reaching my hand up underneath, I found that there was a 10 cm gap between rock and ice.Drill a 22cm screw in and thread a sling.Can’t find the fucking exit hole from the screw!Just clip it and call it good.
I move into the chimney.One side ice and the other side rock.I got a 16cm screw in sideways on the ice bulge.Now I had the illusion of security to fuel my human optimism that, “just a bit further would be some good placements”.Idiot.
There wasn’t even mush, just spin drift over wet, brittle, limestone.I dry tooled through two moves using my back to stem against the left rock wall. I found a hole to thread a thin sling and equalized it to a 10cm thick icicle, clip it all together with a Yates “Screamer”.Made me feel warm all over.
I kept trying to borough through the snow hoping to find some solid ice.I uncovered a small cave.In the back were two thick icicles.Crystal clear, solid.I double wrapped a sling around one and drilled a hole through the other to thread a piece of cord.Equalized everything and rapped off.You win.
purgatory
The indoor climbing gym, what else?
Pulling on plastic with all the other extreme types.I guess it’s better than staying at home and wallowing in failure.But I’m going to lose it if I see one more yahoo pantomiming moves after they’ve been rehearsing the same route for three hours.
I atone, get stronger, train.It’s not even close to climbing boys and girls.At its best it’s nothing more than training.
salvation
Halleluiah!Ice climbing pure and simple.Everyone else thinks it’s too late in the season.Can’t think for yourself?Make your own evaluations?It’s better that way because we’re alone.WI5 ice that’s a bit too cold and brittle.Hallow with lots of air in there.Care, diligence, patience, belief.There’s no, “take”, pulling on quick draws, top rope rehearsal, etc., pure, simple and undiluted.
Misjudgments are immediately penalized.You can’t hide.No bullshit.
Der Eisklettergarten Schlaningraben zwischen Untertauern und Obertauern in den Radstädter Tauern ist ein Paradies für des Eisfallklettern. Am Sonntag, 08. März bin ich mit einer kleiner Gruppe von der OeAV-Sektion Salzburg dort gewesen. Die so genannte, "Übungstour", war eine noch folgende Veranstalltung zum alpine.ausbildung Fortgeschrittener Eiskletterkurs im Maltatal. Wir haben sehr gute Verhältnisse in der Nähe von Untertauern mit zahlreichen Klettermöglichkeiten gefunden.
Die Spurarbeit hat gedauert, aber mit dem Eis im Blick sind wir immer weiter gegangen. Der Graben ist im Salzburgerland Eiskletterführer als, "sehr lawinensicher" beschrieben. Da ist er aber nicht, weil man sich immer in einem schluchtartigen Gelände mit sehr engen Stellen bewegt. Es besteht Durchbruchsgefahr, weil später in der Eissaison der Bach nicht immer zugefroren ist. An der rechten Seite sind möglichkeiten um WI3 bis WI4 zu klettern. Wegen des Temperaturrückgangs waren die Eisverhältnisse etwas spröde. Christian im Vorsteig. Wir haben zwei Routen um 20 Meter zum Vorsteig Üben eingerichtet. Die Routen waren schon im Vorstieg ernst und die Umgebung inspirierend und wunderschön. Jennifer noch der Drei-Meter Steilstelle am Top-Rope in WI3+. Nebenbei, einem WI4 auf massiven Säulen mit Röhreneis weiter oben. Peter hat die Routen am Top-Rope geübt, bevor er erstmals Eis im Vorsteig klettern könnte. Tages Ziele sind, 1) alle Teilnehmer im Vorsteig klettern und... 2) Eisklettern Technik und Taktik zu verbessern.Eisklettern im Vorsteig ist eine komplette neue Welt im Vergleich zum Nachsteig am Top-Rope. Auf der linken Seite vom Graben sind viele anspruchsvolle Linien ins Eis bis zu 50 meter hoch. Christian am Top-Rope in WI4+, ca. 50 Meter lang - Man braucht saubere Technik und Ausdauer.Peter am Top-Rope am linken Eisvorhang: Steilaufschwünge wechseln mit guten Restpositionen vor einer 20 Meter Konstantes 85 bis 90 Grad Passage. Happiness beim Eisklettern ist eine dicke warme Jacke und trockene Handschuhe beim Sichern zu haben. Christian in einer Steilpassage mit Eispilzen - Teilweise sehr nervig zum Klettern.
Der Eiskletterkurs im Maltatal und die Übungstour im Schlaningraben hat mir sehr gut gefallen. Als Kursleiter und Ausbildner bin ich sehr glücklich, dass ich eine nette, hoch motivierte und sicherheitsbewusste Gruppe gehabt habe. Wir hatten gutes Wetter und gute Eisverhältnisse an zwei Wochenenden. Einfach super Erlebnisse!
