Early Season Ice Review

Ice and snow this past November and December was very hard to find. My winter season started at the end of Kaunertal in western Tyrol.  i climbed and skied the north face of the Weißseespitze with a couple of friends.

The cold, snowy face of the Weißseespitze

In December, everyone was complaining about the lack of snow and ice. I went up to check out some features that I sensed held ice on the north east face of the Berchtesgadner Hochthon on the Untersberg near Salzburg. Found a nice coulior with easy ice. It also laid the foundation for an wonderful alpine climb that I could pull off last week (January 21, 2015).

Easy first ascent on Salzburg's home mountain

The day after Christmas (still no snow yet), Jennifer and I went to the Gastein valley and into the Anlauftal. Walking up the steep boulder and scree drainage, Jennifer was on a treasure hunt, uncovering lost ice climber's booty from last season

"Look what I found, think it'll work?"

The moderate ice fall "Federweis" was in pretty good shape and a nice climb of three to four pitches.

The best ice in Anlauftal on December 26th

Right of "Federweis", the impressive "Mordor" stood in in good form with thin ice on the first two easy warm up pitches. It was interesting to see the bordering climbs of "Supervisor", "Seidenrampe", Rodeo", etc., bare of the surrounding snow.

Some of Austria's most impressive ice climbs

The first significant snow fell in the north-east Alps on December 26th. A lot more snow and cold temperatures arrived (finally) on the 29th of December. As i write this at the end of January 2015, winter has fully hit the area and there is plenty of fresh powder with decent ice in the classic Salzburg area ice climbing venues. However, the lower valley ice has still not come in, and may not this season as was the same with last year.

New Year's 2015 in Cogne - short ice report

I was in Cogne for New Year's Eve and did some ice climbing with my wife. We were there from 30. December 2014 until 4. January 2015. The overall situation was typical early season ice: some things are not formed yet, ice is thin, and the climbs are harder than the grades.

What follows is a short overview:

Lillaz

Cascade di Lillaz - forming well, but too much water flow. The steep, short practice lines before the main fall are formed with possible top ropes from above. Also the easy gulley to the left of the main fall is well formed and not running with water.

Tutto Relativo - good, pillar not formed on crux pitch but possible with a few easy mixed moves on left, upper ice good

Pattigagio Artistico - very good

Hard Ice in the Rock - very good

Pattagagio & Hard Ice are reached with the standard traverse, the lower columns are of course not formed. There was a team that did the mixed variation on Pattagagio

Stella Artice is not fully formed

Cold Coulior - a bit harder than the grade and run out on the third pitch due to thin ice and a delicate exit. It is fun to climb with more features than when fully formed, upper ice is good

Tuborg is possible but the curtain is not fully formed all the way across and a small pillar touches down on the left

Candelera del Cayote has been climbed a lot but is perhaps a half-grade harder

Valnontey
Lauson - very featured and wet. Climbable when cold and best on an overcast day

Thoule - protected from direct sun, but still pretty wet later in the day. Overall very good shape

Patri - in the best shape of all the ice in Valnontey, and therefore the unthinking masses are lined up 10 deep .....

Repentance - has been climbed and is in good, but early season, conditions

Monday Money - first pitch is mixed and the rest is good ice, but also like Repentance in early season conditions

There is very little snow in the valleys. Approach skis or snow shoes are not needed. Temperatures have been pretty good (http://www.yr.no/place/Italy/Aosta_Valley/Cogne/long.html) with well below freezing at night and generally clear skies. There has been very little to no precipitation & temps are at about -10 to +4 degrees.

Verkauf Eisgeräte & Eisschrauben plus Freeride / Touring Schiausrüstung

Black Diamond Cobras & Eisschrauben

2 BD “Cobras” mit 2 neue Laser Picks, Plus zusätzliche Teile: 2 neue Laser Picks, 2 Competition Headblocks, 2 Leashes, 1 Schaufelkopf
€425,— inkl. Versand

Sechs 16cm BD “Turbo” (neue Model) Eisschrauben mit BD “Screwup” Schutztasche
€150,— inkl. Versand

Geräte & Schrauben sind in eine Top Zustand.

Freeride Skis & Bindung

Line “Prophet” 115 (2012) 186cm - 153/115/142 mit Marker Duke & G3 Felle
nur im Set, €350,— (plus Versand, Abholung in Stadt Salzburg)

White Dot “Preacher” (2013) 189cm - 155/112/133 mit Dynafit TLT Radical FT, Harscheisen & G3 Felle
im Set, €350,— (plus Versand, Abholung in Stadt Salzburg) / nur Bindung, €200,— inkl. Versand

Dynafit TLT Radical Bindung

Dynafit TLT Radical FT Freeride/Touring Bindung (2013)

€200,— Inkl. Versand

Freeride / Touring Schischuhe

Dynafit “Vulcan” Freeride / Touring Schischuhe (2014)
MP 26.5cm / 297mm, Schuhgroße ca. 42
nur 1/2 Saison im Frühling 2014 verwendet
€425,— Inkl. Versand

Lange RX130 L.V. Freeride Alpin Schischuhe (2012)
MP 26.5cm / 306mm, Schuhgroße ca. 42-42.5
€200,— Inkl. Versand

ALLE FOTOS SEHE UNTEN

Mehr Infos und Kontakt verwenden die Formular Rechts

Ice & Ski Equipment For Sale

Black Diamond Cobras & Ice Screws

2 BD “Cobras” with 2 new Laser picks, plus additional parts: 2 new Laser picks, 2 Competition headblocks, 2 leashes, 1 Adze headblock

€425,— incl. shipping

Six, 16cm BD “Turbo” (new model) ice screws with BD “Screwup” protection case

only as a complete set

€150,— incl. shipping

ice tools and screws are in great condition!

Freeride Skis

Line “Prophet” 115 (2012) 186cm - 153/115/142 with Marker Duke & G3 Skins

only in a set, €350,— (plus shipping, pick-up Salzburg city)

White Dot “Preacher” (2013) 189cm - 155/112/133 with Dynafit TLT Radical FT, Ski Crampons & G3 Skins

in set, €350,— (plus shipping, pick-up in Salzburg city) /  Binding alone, €200,— incl. shipping

Freeride / Touring & Freeride / Alpine Ski Boots

Dynafit “Vulcan” Freeride / Touring Ski Boots (2014)

MP 26.5cm / 297mm, Shoe size ca. 42

only used for 1/2 a season, in Spring 2014

€425,— incl. shipping

Lange RX130 L.V. Freeride / Alpine Schischuhe (2012)

MP 26.5cm / 306mm, Shoe size ca. 42-42.5

€200,— incl. shipping

 

For more information, use the contact form on the right!

Kalymnos Climbing Courses

KALYMNOS CLIMBING COURSES, AUGUST & SEPTEMBER 2014

Kalymnos From the Gym to the Crag - XXL
Learn or refresh your skills to safely climb outdoor sport routes on Kalymnos!

PERFECT WEATHER GUARANTEED!

safety, rope technique, climbing technique, lead climbing, improve your level, etc.

COURSE 1: 20. August - 27 August 2014, €500,— per person

COURSE 2: 27. August - 03. September 2014, €500,— per person

Kalymnos Multi-Pitch Sport - XXL
Learn or refresh your skills to safely climb multi-pitch sport routes on Kalymnos!

Safety, rope technique, retreat & basic partner rescue, topi reading, equipment, etc.

There are many sectors with 2-3 pitch routes and multi-pitch routes over two hundred meters long on Kalymnos from 5a/b to 7a+

03. September - 10 September 2014, €500,— per person

Book both Kalymnos From the Gym to the Crag - XXL & Kalymnos Multi-Pitch XXL for €900,—, Save €100,—!

_________________________________________________________________________

Kalymnos Climbing Instruction & Guiding Rates

€35,— per hour, minimum booking two hours
€100,—half day / 4 hours (each additional participant, €50,—)
€150,— full day / 6+ hours (each additional participant, €50,—)
€500,— per week per person

Multi-Pitch Guiding €250,— (full day)

Kalymnos Program Overview:

Kalymnos Connection - Full-Service Program for Sport Climbers of all Levels

Kalymnos Climb! - Basic Climbing Service for Sport Climbers of all Levels

Kalymnos Beach & Climb - Holiday Program for Teens and Young Adults

Kalymnos From the Gym to the Crag XXL - Sport Climbing Course

Kalymnos Multi-Pitch Sport XXL -Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing Course

Full Information Here

Use the Contact Form on the Right to Learn More!

Awesome April

Looking back from the prospective of mid-May, I am still a bit overwhelmed with how fantastic the month of April was for me. Simply awesome. The two highlights were completing the Chamonix to Zermatt ski traverse and a three-week sport climbing trip to Kalymnos.

I was very fortunate to guide five excellent and top-fit skiers on the "Haute Route" from Chamonix/Argentiere to Zermatt. The group was a private group from the Salzburg Alpenverein.

exiting the coulior at the col du passon

We had relatively good weather. At times it was very windy and cold. On the last day, our stage to reach the Schönbiel hut above Zermatt, the weather turned and the visibility was restricted with strong winds and light snow.. The ski traverse was really exceptional because of the fantastic mountain environment, the time spent together in the huts hanging out with all the participants and the wonderful feeling of jointly succeeding in reaching a shared goal.

skiing down from the col du sovereu to lac des dix

Personally for me what was a great lesson in life was how the trip became a reality based on a simple conversation between myself and two of the participants during a rainy fall day in the climbing gym. Two long-time friends mentioned how many great experiences we shared as a group that was regularly underway over the last seven/eight years as I guided them on many trips in the mountains: Grand Paradiso North Face, Hoch Tirol ski traverse, ice faces in Tirol and Salzburg, Mont Blanc from Italy, etc., etc. I mentioned that I would love to do the Chamonix-Zermatt traverse this season and they said that would be a great excuse to get the group together again.

on top of the pigne d'arola, 3790m

I was determined to see that I saw the tour through to Zermatt from the germination of a seemingly simple comment. I believed in our success as step-by-step small signs would materialise giving me indications that the mountain gods where aligning and giving us the chance to realise a special life-long goal.

I was back in Salzburg for a brief week before flying to Kalymnos. Like the Chamonix-Zermatt traverse, the germination for a sport climbing trip to Kalymnos came from an off-handed remark a client, Martina, made while training in the Anif climbing gym. She was saying that the wet early spring weather was making it impossible to climb outdoors and she would love to go to Kalymnos again over Easter. "I'd go in a minute", I responded, adding that I was serious and lets do it. 

at the schönbiel hut with the matterhorn in the background

A few weeks later, four of us were sitting on the train to Munich on our way to our flight to Kos and ferry transfer to Kalymnos! I had a fun week with Martina and Sophie, then a second week together with Jennifer and the third week I was able to set up the cooperation with a partner organisation on Kalymnos to instruct and guide sport climbing and put up some new routes with my friend Claude.

On Kalymnos, I was able to climb with my friends Nicola, Claude and Yannis as well as meet and climb with a handful of Italians and Greeks that are distend to become friends as we certainly will reunited on Kalymnos in the future.

As I become more and more aware of how life really works, I am just learning how what seems as an insignificant thought can be channeled into actions and behaviours that bring meaningful, true fulfilment in life.

KALYMNOS CONNECTION: JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER 2014 & SPRING 2015

On-site, professional, flexible, customer-oriented service for climbers on the Greek island of Kalymnos and it’s neighbouring island Tolendos

In 2003, Climbing Magazine (USA) labeled Kalymnos as a paradise for sport climbers. Since that time, Kalymnos and Tolendos have developed as one of the top European vacation climbing destinations for sport climbers of all ages, abilities and desires.

As a climbing destination …

More than 2,500 routes!

More than 50 climbing sectors

Short approaches to the climbing sectors

Concentration of climbing sectors that are reached by foot or a very short drive (5-15 minutes)

Stable Weather from April through October

Shaded sectors and crags or unlimited summer climbing

As a holiday destination …

A simple, beautiful, island next to Kos

Wonderful beaches

No mass tourism! An authentic Greek experience

Variety of tavernas & restaurants

Locally run nightlife: clubs, cafes, bars, discos

Perfect balance of active climbing and sea-side relaxation

HOW KALYMNOS CONNECTION WORKS:

I am your local, on-site, expert an email, phone call or sms away!

Step 1: Book your flight (suggested arrival on Kos)

Step 2: Inform me of your arrival date and time

Step 3: You will receive a question form from me outlining the services required & accurate transfer information from Kos to Kalymnos

Step 4: I will meet you in the Kalymnos harbour of Pothia for your taxi transfer to your hotel or studio

Step 5: Island overview and orientation within 24 hours after arrival, arrange climbing times, book extra services, coordinate activities, etc.

What’s left is to enjoy your holiday climbing time without stress or worries!

SERVICES

Tourist Related Services

• Island orientation and overview
• Pick-up in Kalymnos harbour and transfer to accommodation
• Assistance / Organisation with hotel, studio or other accommodation booking
• Assistance / Organisation with scooter or car rental
• Kalymnos Resque Card - discounts on shops, restaurants, cafes, etc.
• Organisation of ferry tickets and taxi transfer to Pothia (Kalymnos harbour) for departure
• Non-Climbing excursions and activities as requested (at additional cost)

• sunset cruise
• visits of neighbouring islands
• beach visits by land or by sea
• “Top of Tolendos” mountain hike
• restaurants & tavernas
• dinner cruise
• etc., etc.

Climbing Related Services

• Professional care and safety in all climbing activities
• Instruction and training
• Enjoy and improve your climbing in appropriately chosen climbing sectors and routes for your ability
• Personal training for individuals and small groups
• Multi-Pitch guiding and instruction
• Video analysis
• Consultation regarding training, nutrition, mental aspects, etc.
• Equipment rental if needed

Cost & Fees:

First Week Charge €800,— per Person (Adult), each additional week €600,—

Family Discount - Children (15 years and younger), €400,— per week

Price Includes:

Pick-up and transfer to and from Kalymnos harbour

Island orientation and overview

Organisation & Booking of Accommodation

Organisation & Booking of rental car or scooter

All climbing activities

Equipment rental if needed

Kalymnos Resque Card

Price Does Not Include:

Flight

Transfer to Kos harbour of Mastahari

Ferry transfer to Kalymnos

Accommodation cost

Food & Drink

Car or Scooter rental

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PROGRAM FOR TEENS & YOUNG ADULTS

Beach & Climbing Holidays for July & August 2014!

First Week Charge €800,— per Person, each additional week €600,—

Price Includes:

Pick-up & transfer to and from Kalymnos harbour

Island orientation and overview

Hotel organisation & booking at Plaza Hotel (http://www.plazahotel.gr/index.php/en/) or Continental Hotel (http://www.continental-hotel.gr) Kalymnos

Scooter reservation & booking

4 - days of climbing per week

Equipment rental if needed

Kalymnos Resque Card

Beach & Taverna visits

Tolendos excursion

Addional climbing, services, activities available at an extra charge!

Price Does Not Include:

Flight

Transfer to Kos harbour of Mastahari

Ferry transfer to Kalymnos

Hotel cost

Food & Drink

Scooter rental