Yesterday (08. 05), I was back on the Untersberg east ridge ("Laterndl", III/400m) to train. I did the approach over the "Kienbergsteg" that follows the border between Bavaria and Salzburg. I crossed a couple of snow and debris filled avalanche paths. At about 1200m there are still snow fields to travel over and a small snow coluior before the start of the ridge.
In the route itself, the north-east facing scramble to the start of the climbing is still under a couple meters of snow. After the first initial climbing moves, the short gully leading up to the second belay is also snow filled and running with water at its entrance. The pitch is an interesting bit of mixed climbing. I used my ice axe but the crampons stayed in my pack.
Climbing to the third belay was somewhat nerve racking as just after the winter thaw, everything seemed loser than normal. Overall, the brittle rock sections needed more care due to the fact that the route has not been traveled this early in the year and it is just now thawing out.
An interesting aside: The third belay broke out last fall. The belay anchors on the east ridge are dilled and cemented "U" shaped iron bars. Hence there is only one belay anchor at each station. This is normal on a number of older classic routes in the area. The system is not redundant. A large piece of rock fractured to which the belay anchor was attached. I saw the piece of rock with the intact bolt laying on the ground last fall. I have clipped this anchor numerous times when I've guided the route and even rapped-off from it when I had to bail with a couple of guests.
It really made me think when I saw that the rock broke out with the anchor. I do not trust this type of non-standard belay point any longer. Back up single-point anchors at belay stances.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Monday, May 4, 2009
You Get What You Pay For
This post could also be subtitled, "there's no such thing as a free lunch". I see on almost a daily basis people who think they are getting some sort of deal and saving money by finding a "experienced", or "knowledgeable", friend to teach them how to climb rock or ice, ski, learn about mountain safety, etc.
It does not work: 99.9% of the time, and you get exactly what you pay for. Plus, when you are talking about certain activities such as mountaineering, ski touring, ice climbing, etc., it can be life-threateningly dangerous.
Let's look at the person put in the role of "instructor". In my experience usually this person is someone who has practiced the activity in question for a brief period of time (1 to 3 years) and due to the human dynamic, the "instructor" assumes a role far beyond their experience.
It takes about 10,000 hours of practice to become proficient at complicated activities such as climbing rock or ice. Break that down you come up an average of 1000 hours per year of training time over a ten year period. That's 20 hours per week of doing the activity in question. That 20 hours does not include the time you are using to drink an espresso at the climbing gym bar or sitting in your car on the way to the crag.
There is no substitute for training volume - everyone has to pay their dues. The people who think they are talented, or genetically gifted, or whatever, and delude themselves into thinking that the above does not apply are only fooling themselves. On top of this, someone who is put in the role of transmitting information and guiding the learning process needs a very wide palette of teaching experience similar to, if not more than, the volume needed to acquire the skill itself.
Yeah, it really pisses me off to come along and see someone assume the role of knowledgeable instructor, guide, trainer, climber, alpinist, etc., before they have put in their time. It is simply insulting. I mean when I hear a person talk in a way that implies mastery when they've climbed a few bolted routes, at best can red point one 5b that fits their style in the local climbing gym, have climbed two single pitch WI3's (hanging on every other ice screw), or "done" a classic alpine route with a paid guide, well it makes me want to puke.
If that is the type of person you want to learn from, well that's what you'll get and you'll save some cash. Quality? What quality.
The argument from the "student" is that they are a person looking to save some money and it usually goes along the lines of, "I can't afford it", or "It's too expensive", or "I'm only a beginner, I don't need somebody so good", etc. This is also a fallacy.
I can see in the first 30 seconds whether or not a so-called beginning climber, skier, mountaineer, etc., has worked with a proper professional or not. The learning curve in the beginning of acquiring a skill is extremely steep. If you chose to screw around and waste this opportunity, you will pay for it over and over again. How? Well you will eventually have to go back and fix every little imperfection, bad habit, sloppy technique, etc., step-by-step. It is much, much harder to override old habits in the nero-muscular system as freshly embed new ones.
In the end, a person may save some cash in the short term but will eventually come to regret not investing in themselves at this very precious time of learning something new.
It does not work: 99.9% of the time, and you get exactly what you pay for. Plus, when you are talking about certain activities such as mountaineering, ski touring, ice climbing, etc., it can be life-threateningly dangerous.
Let's look at the person put in the role of "instructor". In my experience usually this person is someone who has practiced the activity in question for a brief period of time (1 to 3 years) and due to the human dynamic, the "instructor" assumes a role far beyond their experience.
It takes about 10,000 hours of practice to become proficient at complicated activities such as climbing rock or ice. Break that down you come up an average of 1000 hours per year of training time over a ten year period. That's 20 hours per week of doing the activity in question. That 20 hours does not include the time you are using to drink an espresso at the climbing gym bar or sitting in your car on the way to the crag.
There is no substitute for training volume - everyone has to pay their dues. The people who think they are talented, or genetically gifted, or whatever, and delude themselves into thinking that the above does not apply are only fooling themselves. On top of this, someone who is put in the role of transmitting information and guiding the learning process needs a very wide palette of teaching experience similar to, if not more than, the volume needed to acquire the skill itself.
Yeah, it really pisses me off to come along and see someone assume the role of knowledgeable instructor, guide, trainer, climber, alpinist, etc., before they have put in their time. It is simply insulting. I mean when I hear a person talk in a way that implies mastery when they've climbed a few bolted routes, at best can red point one 5b that fits their style in the local climbing gym, have climbed two single pitch WI3's (hanging on every other ice screw), or "done" a classic alpine route with a paid guide, well it makes me want to puke.
If that is the type of person you want to learn from, well that's what you'll get and you'll save some cash. Quality? What quality.
The argument from the "student" is that they are a person looking to save some money and it usually goes along the lines of, "I can't afford it", or "It's too expensive", or "I'm only a beginner, I don't need somebody so good", etc. This is also a fallacy.
I can see in the first 30 seconds whether or not a so-called beginning climber, skier, mountaineer, etc., has worked with a proper professional or not. The learning curve in the beginning of acquiring a skill is extremely steep. If you chose to screw around and waste this opportunity, you will pay for it over and over again. How? Well you will eventually have to go back and fix every little imperfection, bad habit, sloppy technique, etc., step-by-step. It is much, much harder to override old habits in the nero-muscular system as freshly embed new ones.
In the end, a person may save some cash in the short term but will eventually come to regret not investing in themselves at this very precious time of learning something new.
Monday, April 27, 2009
AIS-Salzburg Outdoor Climbing
The kids in the American International School - Salzburg climbing course have been able to get outside to climb on the climbing tower at the University of Salzburg Sport Center in Rif. I am really impressed that all the participants have made such progress in their climbing abilities. More importantly, the group is very safety conscious when belaying, always looking out for each other.
It makes a tremendous difference when beginners, such as those in the climbing course, put in the time climbing indoors. The kids have really accummulated the hours climbing and gained security whch is then transfered to climbing outdoors.
Checkout the slide show by clicking on the pictures. You can then download the pictures you want from the album!
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Alpine Training Advice
The video link from Kelly Cordes is some great advice about training for alpinism. Codes is the editor of the American Alpine Journal and a product tester for
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
AV-Salzburg alpine.ausbildung Frühling & Sommer
TERMINPLAN: OeAV-SALZBURG alpine.ausbildung KURSE & TOUREN IN FRÜLING UND SOMMER
Skihochtouren: Venedigergruppe (Johannishütte), 30. April - 03. Mai, 2009
Highlights - Großvenediger über Lammerrinne, Großer Geiger über Happ Scharte
Firn / Eis Kurs: Taschachhaus im Pitztal, 11. Juni - 14. Juni, 2009
Highlights - Nordwände wie Petersenspitze, Hinterer Brochkogel und Wildspitze
Hochtouren Kurs: Glocknergruppe (Stüdlhütte), 10. Juli - 12. Juli, 2009
Highlights - Großglockner (Event. über Stüdlgrat), Romariswandkopf Überschreitung
Mehr Infos & Anmeldung: joe.fratianni@alpenverein-salzburg.at
Skihochtouren: Venedigergruppe (Johannishütte), 30. April - 03. Mai, 2009
Highlights - Großvenediger über Lammerrinne, Großer Geiger über Happ Scharte
Firn / Eis Kurs: Taschachhaus im Pitztal, 11. Juni - 14. Juni, 2009
Highlights - Nordwände wie Petersenspitze, Hinterer Brochkogel und Wildspitze
Hochtouren Kurs: Glocknergruppe (Stüdlhütte), 10. Juli - 12. Juli, 2009
Highlights - Großglockner (Event. über Stüdlgrat), Romariswandkopf Überschreitung
Mehr Infos & Anmeldung: joe.fratianni@alpenverein-salzburg.at
Monday, April 6, 2009
Weekend of Firsts
This past weekend was the first spring weather of the season. Sunny, warm, T-shirt weather. My wife and I were able to get in a number of "firsts". First long day of sport climbing outdoors, first time climbing at a new crag, first mountain bike ride and of course, first time in our favorite Bavarian Biergarten.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Books
I have always read a lot. Usually when I want to figure something out, my first step is to find what has been written about what I am interested in. Therefore, I have read a bunch of books related to climbing, skiing and alpinism: "how-to" and technique books as well as biographies and historical accounts of climbs.
There seem to be a handful of books that I continually come back to when I am looking for advice on training, climbing, tactical information, inspiration or understanding.
I just finished reading Andy Kirkpatrick's book, Psycho Vertical. The book surprised me with its deapth and very personal introspection that I did not expect. This got me thinking about all the books and authors that have unknowingly helped me out as a climber and person.
Here's the list at this point:
Walter Bonati, The Mountains of My Life. Bonati is without a doubt the god of alpinism. What he did in his alpine career is unbelievable.
Will Gadd, Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique. The best book on ice and mixed climbing as well as dry tooling. God technique and training advice too - and everything is relayed in Gadd's super positive, motivational voice.
Mark Twight, Extreme Alpinism. The kind of book that you wished you had read before you ever started in the mountains because it would have saved you a tremendous amount of time and money.
The American Alpine Journal. This yearly journal is what is happening in the world of alpinism. The featured articles are extremely informative and inspirational.
Jeff Lowe, Ice World. One of the pioneers of modern ice climbing. His first ascents with leashes and straight-shaft tools are amazing, plus he goes even further to bring these techniques onto long alpine routes throughout the world's ranges.
Mark Twight, Kiss or Kill, Confessions of a Serial Climber. This is the most read book that I own. I turn to it when ever I get fed up with the state of (or overall lack of) all things alpine in Austria, or in my own mind.
There seem to be a handful of books that I continually come back to when I am looking for advice on training, climbing, tactical information, inspiration or understanding.
I just finished reading Andy Kirkpatrick's book, Psycho Vertical. The book surprised me with its deapth and very personal introspection that I did not expect. This got me thinking about all the books and authors that have unknowingly helped me out as a climber and person.
Here's the list at this point:
Walter Bonati, The Mountains of My Life. Bonati is without a doubt the god of alpinism. What he did in his alpine career is unbelievable.
Will Gadd, Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique. The best book on ice and mixed climbing as well as dry tooling. God technique and training advice too - and everything is relayed in Gadd's super positive, motivational voice.
Mark Twight, Extreme Alpinism. The kind of book that you wished you had read before you ever started in the mountains because it would have saved you a tremendous amount of time and money.
The American Alpine Journal. This yearly journal is what is happening in the world of alpinism. The featured articles are extremely informative and inspirational.
Jeff Lowe, Ice World. One of the pioneers of modern ice climbing. His first ascents with leashes and straight-shaft tools are amazing, plus he goes even further to bring these techniques onto long alpine routes throughout the world's ranges.
Mark Twight, Kiss or Kill, Confessions of a Serial Climber. This is the most read book that I own. I turn to it when ever I get fed up with the state of (or overall lack of) all things alpine in Austria, or in my own mind.
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